CHICYEE

Some consider France to be the world’s perfume capital, but there’s a piece of olfactive history that’s usually skimmed over: Many French perfumers picked up their techniques from Italians. Modern-day perfumery got its start during the Italian Renaissance, when Venice and Florence became hot spots for developing new distilling techniques. In the 14th century, aqua mirabilis—the cornerstone of contemporary perfume compositions—was created. This 95-percent alcohol base was able to beautifully hold the aromas of spices, woods, florals, and musks, and this format eventually evolved into the standard perfumes we spritz today. 

I discovered all this on a recent trip to Italy, where I immersed myself in the country’s rich perfume-making heritage. I stumbled upon a fragrance house in Capri founded by Dominican friars, toured one of the world’s oldest perfumeries—Officina Profumo-Farmaceutica di Santa Maria Novella, in Florence—and sniffed my way through each medieval city’s cobblestone streets. The perfumes that graced my nose fully encapsulated the iconic la dolce vita lifestyle, with photorealistic citrus notes, dreamy white florals, unexpected bright spicy pops, and warm, enveloping bases.

So while France may get a majority of the olfactive attention, you’re missing out if you bypass Italian perfumes. Ahead, we’ve rounded up eight scents that make the case for putting Italian fragrances front and center in your scent library.

Santa Maria Novella Acqua di Sicilia

Perhaps the most well-known—and oldest—perfumery in Italy, Santa Maria Novella was founded in 1221, and the original Florence boutique still exists today. The brand even continues to sell its first fragrance, Acqua Della Regina, which was made for Caterina de Medici, a Florentine noblewoman, in anticipation of her marriage to King Henry II of France. 

The heritage perfume house now carries over 60 fragrances housed in vintage-inspired bottles, along with handsoaps, potpourri, lotions, and more. I sniffed through nearly every offering, and was completely enamored with Acqua de Sicilia, a simple yet vibrant cologne inspired by summers spent near the Mediterranean sea (Amalfi aesthetic, anyone?). This smells like candied sunshine creeping up the horizon thanks to a medley of citrus notes—Calabrian bergamot, bitter orange, neroli, and yellow mandarin—grounded in earthy petitgrain, rosemary, and a touch of musk.

Fabbrica Della Musa Île Bourbon

The gilded statuesque bottle of Île Bourbon caught my initial attention, but the sweet, sultry potion inside completely captivated me. Today’s gourmands have gone rogue, with many brands just trying to out-sugar each other. This sophisticated take throws the gourmand trend on its head and proves that notes like chocolate, vanilla, and caramel can be refined, elegant, and oh so sexy. 

This fragrance opens with a swirl of incense and caramel. The smokiness prevents the scent from reaching headache-inducing levels of sweet before a warm blend of cardamom and cinnamon wraps you in comfort. The dry down turns you into a seductive sweet treat with smooth dark chocolate and the purest Madagascar vanilla. I still regret not purchasing a bottle four months after discovering it.

Gritti Venetia Gossip Night

If the song “Heads Will Roll” by the Yeah Yeah Yeahs had a scent, it would without a doubt be Gossip Night. This is the perfume you spritz for a glittering party hosted in a restored Italian villa ,where fizzy, fruity cocktails abound, you dance until your feet hurt, and you watch an unforgettable sunrise with your closest friends.

An effervescent potion that transforms into a deceptively sweet profile, this Italian perfume feels celebratory, cheeky, and just plain fun. Juicy mango blossoms, lychee, and peaches immediately pique your curiosity. A combination of whipped cream and caramel adds a delicate airy sweetness before fading into a musky vanilla haze.

Profumoir O.R.I.G.I.N.E Layering Set

The concept of layering has only recently started to pick up steam in the US. However, this practice has been engrained in the DNA of Italian brand Profumoir from the beginning. They believe in allowing each individual perfume essence to shine on its own, then letting your imagination run wild with bespoke layering combinations to find a scent that feels uniquely you.

With hundreds of perfumes to choose from, the selection feels a bit overwhelming. I spent hours in their olfactive library and ended up leaving with the layering set. O.R.I.G.I.N.E. features seven notes that have been the backbone of perfumery for centuries: Oud, rose, incense, jasmine, iris, neroli, and amber. I feel like an alchemist as I mist different combinations to enhance other perfumes in my collection and create one-of-a-kind concoctions.

Xerjoff Casamorati Lira

Casamorati was an acclaimed Italian perfumery in the 1800s and early 1900s, but it shuttered in the mid-20th century after falling into financial hardship. Xerjoff brought the legacy brand back to life in 2009, conserving its identity by remaking the majestic bottles and original juices while propelling it into the 21st century.

Lira is the scent that sparked my obsession with Italian perfumery years ago, and I still consider it to be the best caramel fragrance in my entire collection (and I own over 500 perfumes). This enchanting fragrance starts with a succulent surge of blood orange and mellow lavender that gives way to an inviting mix of cinnamon, glazed caramel, soft vanilla, and heady musk. I consider it the grown-up, more worldly version of Pink Sugar (IYKYK).

THoO Up to the Moon

Ironically enough, I first discovered The House of Oud while in Paris. It’s difficult not to be reeled in by the multicolored egg-like bottles, and the complex juices inside that made me spiral over the science of perfumery. How can fragrances with 14+ notes smell cohesive and mesmerizing? I’m still not sure. All I know is THoO does it very well.

Up to the Moon is an homage to the soprano voice of Nino Machaidze, a Georgian opera star. Initially, bright and vibrant fruity notes, including blackcurrant, pink grapefruit, and pear, tickle your nose. Then, a bouquet of rose, jasmine, and magnolia make this feel like early spring—regardless of the season—while fruity musks, raspberries, and a hint of vanilla keep the scent sparkly even in the dry-down.

Fornasetti Immaginazione

I felt like I stumbled upon a rare treasure when I found Fornasetti Immaginazione in Florence. The perfume line from the luxury homeware and furniture designer is only available in about a dozen stores across Italy, and the steep price tag makes this an aspirational addition to any perfume lover’s library.

The octagonal bottle itself is a work of art. Etched with the face of 19th-century opera singer Lina Cavalieri and topped with an elegant malachite cap, it begs to be displayed. And yes, the scent inside is, in fact, bewitching. Spicy and aromatic, this calls to mind a winter garden at the turn of the season. Lavender, thyme, and juniper peek through like after a final dusting of snow. As it develops on skin, the scent melts into the warmth of springtime with deep cedarwood and patchouli before settling in a cloud of resinous amber and tonka.

Carthusia Terra Mia

We can thank the pope for Carthusia perfumery—yes, really. A monastery on Capri uncovered ancient scent recipes in 1948, and with permission from Pope Pius XII, the friars erected a lab to bring these perfumes back to life. Carthusia has been a fully functioning perfume house ever since.

Any coffee lover will fall head-over-heels for Terra Mia. This unique gourmand is reminiscent of full-bodied, hazelnut-steeped coffee sprinkled with rose petals and shaken with a dash of vanilla. It’s strong and robust: This definitely feels a little heavy for the warmer months, but it truly shines throughout the fall and winter.